Summer 2011 Part 10

Cuxhaven and Heligoland



Friday 15th July



Forties, Dogger, Humber, Thames and Dover should sound familiar to anyone who ever listens to the British Shipping Forecast. I’ve just been travelling through North Utsire, South Utsire and Fisher, and today I’m in the German Bight shipping weather forecast area. I remember when there used to be a separate name on the list - of Heligoland - and this is the island where we are planning to go today.



VISTAMAR arrived two hours later than we expected, so our day’s plans had to be altered. Cuxhaven was shrouded in damp mist as we arrived in our berth, and were allowed off the ship. Although we rushed through the empty terminal to the Taxi rank, there were none to be seen, so we had to walk a long way to the Heligoland ferry terminal.



Heligoland Ferries



The vessels



We had tickets to catch the delightful looking ATLANTIS, the little ferry that sails from Cuxhaven to Heligoland island, out in the German Bight shipping area. Unfortunately as we approached the quay we could see the ship already on her way, on what looked like rather rough water.



Plan B swung into action, after we were advised to go to another terminal to try and get seats on the Company’s fast ferry (catamaran) on the same route. It was raining quite hard, the wind was blowing, the woman in the ticket office for the HALUNDER JET was obviously unused to smiling or being helpful to passengers, or even transferring tickets from one of their vessels to another. We had to pay for new tickets out to the island. We had also previously arranged to return from Heligoland on the HALUNDER JET anyway, this time for the complete journey back along the River Elbe to Hamburg. The office woman ignored our return tickets, the seats were summarily cancelled and new ones allocated so we no longer had the front row viewing seats we had booked and paid for many months ago. Ah well, we must make the best of it but what a shame.



So we boarded the vessel with almost 300 others and took our newly reserved seats on the lower Jet Deck of this catamaran. The seats were comfortable, screens around the lounge showed outside views, speed, and position on the route, and menus in the seat pockets showed food or drinks to order for delivery to one’s seat. All this was fine until we sailed and left the shelter of the coast. The journey was supposed to take one and a quarter hours, doing about 29 knots.



The journey to Heligoland was, well, the first syllable is about right – hell. It was very very rough, and the speed frequently dropped to 10 knots because of the sea conditions. Most people were sea-sick (I wasn’t) and staff walked around continuously collecting sick bags. I think it was the noise of people being ill, groaning, children crying, and some people screaming, and the discomfort that made it worse. I think we must have been on the limit of sailing conditions for that sort of vessel, and it was absolutely horrifying when we saw and felt us going underwater. Now we knew what a ‘green water’ experience was, as it happened several times during that dreadful journey.



One of my friends wanted some fresh air and managed to get on deck for a moment. Being the keen photographer that he is, he also managed to get pictures of the ATLANTIS ferry in the seas as we overtook her – we had caught her up on the journey, although she had left an hour ahead of us.



Atlantis up



Atlantis down



Nearly two hours later we arrived in Heligoland, to be met on the quayside by 3 ambulances. We disembarked with great relief and managed to walk away from the sight of the sea and an unforgettable experience.



The island seemed an interesting little place in the pale sunshine, with its painted shop fronts along the quayside. There were summer places to rent and lots of people around, obviously here on holiday. It looks very picturesque, with its nature reserves, sea life, beaches and summer social calendar. If this is July summer weather and sea conditions, we wondered what it might be like in the winter. I shall have to listen to the Shipping Forecast in December!



Helgoland



Helgoland



We sat with our backs to the sea for some time, and then realised that ATLANTIS had arrived. For some reason she does not come alongside, but anchors off. Those poor people on the ship then had the final indignity of having to descend into local craft to come ashore. After a voyage in those seas, I really didn’t envy them the final part of the journey, which must have seemed endless.



Coming ashore from Atlantis



Nearing the quayside



We recovered enough to have a snack in an upstairs restaurant which reminded me slightly of the de la Warr Pavilion at Bexhill in East Sussex.



Funny Girl



Lady von Busum



One friend had spoken to the First Officer on the HALUNDER JET about the weather and sea conditions for our return journey later, back to Hamburg via Cuxhaven. He was told that the weather front had almost cleared and the journey should be much better than this morning, which was such a relief. I think we three had mentally wondered about alternative means of getting back, rather than enduring another journey like the one coming here. In fact there is no other way of getting to this island, which has an interesting history.



The route



Halunder Jet



Ships seen: Dublin Express, MSC Joy, Atlantis, 2 DFS Freighters, Funny Girl, Lady von Busum (which was obviously translated as Lady of the Bosom), Amarinth, Nippon Maru (not really, just a model), Grandi Napoli, Halunder Jet



To be continued…

Summer 2011 Part 9

VISTAMAR - Day at sea



Thursday 14th July

We have a day at sea, sailing south towards Cuxhaven, at the mouth of the River Elbe. Early morning tea and coffee was available each day but we took meals in the Restaurant at our assigned table, and after breakfast today we had to prepare for Lifeboat Drill at 10 a.m. Every passenger had to stand outside his or her cabin wearing a life jacket, and then wait to be taken to muster stations outside on the deck. There was a roll-call of names and cabin numbers, the usual instruction of what to do in the case of emergency, and then we were dismissed.



4 Deck atrium



Small but perfectly formed



Lots of greenery throughout the ship



Lifting the spirits?



We didn’t want to be involved in the Keep Fit so-called entertainment so decided to investigate the free beer and music (the 4 piece Convoy Band again) to be held out on the Lido Deck by the pool. By this time the weather was deteriorating, as we were heading into the stretch of water between Norway and Denmark (the Skagerrak), and it was windy and cool. The flapping flags above the deck were rigid with the strength of the wind, and the ship was moving a lot, so even the band decided to move inside. Some hardy souls continued to enjoy their drinks out on deck, but it wasn’t comfortable so having filled our lungs with just enough fresh air, we went inside too. I was ill for a few minutes (what a nuisance) but recovered in time to walk into lunch.



Restaurant lunch was very poorly attended, and there were sympathetic looks and remarks from the staff. I took to my bed and had a wonderful deep sleep and met my chums for Afternoon Tea. We had all missed Playing Darts and Shuffleboard but felt better for a rest. As forecast, the ship’s motion lessened; there was still a swell but no visibility.



Hospital waiting area



Card room



Afternoon Tea in the Musiksalon was really well attended so obviously everyone had managed to get back on their feet again ready to enjoy more wonderful cakes and pastries – the Feasting part of the trip continues. The Boutique staff brought some of their goods for sale into the Musiksalon where we were all queuing for dainty food, so I bought a reminder of the fact that VISTAMAR is registered in Venezia – a small item of Murano glass that couldn’t be ignored. Postcards, key rings and photographs of the passengers were on sale in the Reception Foyer at the foot of the atrium, so it felt as if the ship had come alive again with so many people around.



Reception



The next Entertainment started soon after tea, which was a Lecture about the North Sea with slide pictures. The language difference didn’t seem to make a problem as we listened and saw pictures and graphs about tides, sea beds, birds, animals, the coastlines, weather and currents. It was all very interesting until the moment we were instructed about the life cycle of the Danish worm that lives on their beaches. That became so detailed and rather horrifying because of what it eats and produces, that we vowed never to go barefoot on a Danish beach, ever.



Captain Antonio Mattera had invited all passengers to a Cocktail Party so it was posh frock for me and smart gear for everyone as we sat with a glass of fizz in hand in the Musiksalon as the Cruise Director introduced the Captain, who made a speech and in turn introduced his senior Officers. Fifteen minutes later everyone was heading down to the Restaurant for Gala Dinner, in a very happy and jolly atmosphere.



Gala dinner



Gala dinner



The food was enjoyable and then, just before dessert was served, the lights were turned out. Music started, napkins were waved, and yes, the waiters walked in with cakes and fireworks blazing. The catering staff appeared and were introduced en masse to great applause, and then they all went back to work, the lights were turned up and we were served with Baked Alaska. It may have been rather predictable, but there’s nothing wrong with that on some occasions.



Music was provided back in the Musiksalon and then it was Show Time again, with international songs and Anton of the Tyrol appearing with other singers. Later there was music for dancing, Snacks were served to everyone sitting in and around the room, and there was a chance to see a Cabaret Show up in the Veranda Club.



One of the suites



Another view of a suite



Keeping tabs on the passengers



We went for a walk out on the damp decks,





Caring for passengers...



and found out that our speed today had been between 10 and 12 knots. At 7,500 tons this is a small ship and vulnerable to low pressure weather fronts (again/still) as well as sea conditions. Earlier we had been told about future cruises and itineraries for VISTAMAR and how she was going on a wonderful trip across to South America leaving just before Christmas, but I can’t quite see the appeal of this small vessel going across the Atlantic from Tenerife .



I really like this ship and the way she is run and I would certainly consider sailing on her in warmer waters, perhaps on one of her short Mediterranean or Aegean port-intensive cruises. This ship VISTAMAR has an original style and I certainly enjoyed my short cruise on her.



Tomorrow we are due to arrive early in Cuxhaven and then go to Heligoland, so that promises to be interesting.





Ships seen: none



To be continued…