Summer 2011 Part 11 Heligoland to Hamburg

Part 11

Heligoland to Hamburg



Friday 15th July

So we three reluctantly made our way back to the HALUNDER JET. We boarded and this time our seats were on the upper deck in Comfort Class, with free tea, coffee or juices available. I noticed that one small area had a covered rail and coat hangers for Comfort Class passengers. I also noticed that the front rows of seats had seat belts fitted to them, presumably to be used in certain conditions. I imagine they were worn this morning. Again, food was available to order with table service. The sun was still shining and at 4.30 p.m. the crowded vessel pulled away from Heligoland, after an unforgettable visit!



Ships and route



Halunder Jet ready for boarding



After a few minutes we realised that the First Officer had been right about the weather and sea conditions for the part of our journey to Cuxhaven, and we all felt a lot happier.



Calmer seas



This time the journey took the scheduled 1 hour and 15 minutes, and the disembarking passengers were soon off the ship and the new ones on, under sunny and breezy conditions.



Weather signs at Cuxhaven



We stayed on board of course as we were to continue to Hamburg for the two and a half hours journey. Cuxhaven is on the south side of the River Elbe so we went out on the stern deck this time to watch us enter the wide River.



Unknown ship



Tug Vogelsand



Ark Futura



We could also see VISTAMAR at her berth and then watch her leave to sail north again. At last I was able to get a good photograph of her in sunshine.



Vistamar



As we left Cuxhaven we were able to move to the empty front row seats which we had booked originally, so that was lucky.



As the river narrowed very slightly we had to keep within the marked buoys, and of course slow down when nearing other vessels, whatever their size. On the port side we soon approached the western end of the Kiel Canal, at Brunsbuttel, and could see the start of the locks. Goodness, some of Father’s photos were taken eighty years ago when he came through the Canal to here, on the ARANDORA STAR. One of his photos is of him and some others sitting inside the edge of the ship’s funnel, going through the Kiel Canal, so it must have been the dummy funnel! One day I hope to do that journey myself – one day.



The River Elbe wound its way round a slim island in the middle, and then we approached and stopped at Wedel Point – the Welcome Point.



Welcome Point



Coming alongside at Wedel



It was a daily stop for the HALUNDER JET (three hours from Heligoland) and exciting for us: every time a ship passed the Point in daylight a piece of music was played over the loudspeakers, appropriate to the nationality of the ship. We dropped our passengers off, picked up the new ones, and as we left we heard a stirring piece of German music, which lasted for several minutes. Apparently the man who owns the Restaurant and Café there has a CD collection of about 300 national anthems or similar and tries to play the appropriate one for each vessel that passes. Some ships acknowledge this with a whistle, some just ignore it, but the rest of us are perfectly happy and amused. There is a list of expected vessels and their passing times on a notice board in the grounds.



Soon we came to the A380 Airbus factories on the south side of the river. Planes fly in to be fitted out here, and in fact we could see an AIRBUS SKYLINK plane beside the factory, with several others being completed. That reminded me that I saw a RORO vessel in Palermo recently which had the AIRBUS sign on the side of it, and was carrying parts for the aircraft. We also saw the Blohm & Voss ship repair yards as we neared Hamburg. All along the riverside we could see secluded homes tucked into the hillside woods, and frequent sandy beaches on the north side which were being enjoyed by many people.



We finally came in sight of Hamburg city and this reminded me of a couple of Father’s photographs as he approached it on the ARANDORA STAR in 1931. He could see some docks on one side, (and now I’m home I have scanned the photo in case anyone can recognise the funnel markings of the ship in the picture).



Hamburg docks 1931



and railway lines and railway wagons on the other side,



Approaching Hamburg 1931



as well as several church spires. This was the end of our trip, as the sun was sinking in the west.



Halunder Jet



The sky was finally clear and the light golden as we approached the quayside. Just ahead of us was our final destination of the day: the CAP SAN DIEGO.



Cap San Diego



We had booked to stay on board her, as yet another ship experience, and it took us only a few minutes to walk along the quayside, across an old bridge that had obviously been updated at some point, and onto the pontoon leading to our hotel ship.



Welcome on Board



We checked in, paid for our cabins, and enjoyed the thought that we were on board our third ship of the day.



My cabin 206



My bunk



My cabin 206 was spacious, with a view over the starboard side to the water, city spires, buildings and ships moored along the other pontoons. It was disappointing to discover that no food or drink was available on board, other than breakfast in the morning, so we had to leave our cabins and go ashore for a light meal. The public rooms on the ship are available for hire, and we could see people in those rooms, which were then locked up when they left. Why does this sound familiar? Ah well, I was in Hamburg for the very first time and staying on an hotel ship and looking forward to my weekend in the city.



Ships seen: Dublin Express, MSC Joy, Atlantis, 2 DFS freighters, Funny Girl, Lady von Busum, Amaranth, Grandi Napoli, Vistamar,Pilot ship and Mother Pilot Ship, Delta Hamburg, Juyul tanker with an Arabic name too, Anne Ehler (small feeder container), Euro Snow, Finn Breeze, Emma, PAL Line Trans Odin, Ever Eagle, D S Agility from Monrovia), Marie Fresno (Dutch sailing vessel), harbour ferries, Marstan, Ragna, Kristin Schepers, Cap George, City of Beirut in the floating dry dock, MSC Charleston, several other ships in the docks, Cap San Diego hotel ship.



To be continued…

Summer 2011 Part 10

Cuxhaven and Heligoland



Friday 15th July



Forties, Dogger, Humber, Thames and Dover should sound familiar to anyone who ever listens to the British Shipping Forecast. I’ve just been travelling through North Utsire, South Utsire and Fisher, and today I’m in the German Bight shipping weather forecast area. I remember when there used to be a separate name on the list - of Heligoland - and this is the island where we are planning to go today.



VISTAMAR arrived two hours later than we expected, so our day’s plans had to be altered. Cuxhaven was shrouded in damp mist as we arrived in our berth, and were allowed off the ship. Although we rushed through the empty terminal to the Taxi rank, there were none to be seen, so we had to walk a long way to the Heligoland ferry terminal.



Heligoland Ferries



The vessels



We had tickets to catch the delightful looking ATLANTIS, the little ferry that sails from Cuxhaven to Heligoland island, out in the German Bight shipping area. Unfortunately as we approached the quay we could see the ship already on her way, on what looked like rather rough water.



Plan B swung into action, after we were advised to go to another terminal to try and get seats on the Company’s fast ferry (catamaran) on the same route. It was raining quite hard, the wind was blowing, the woman in the ticket office for the HALUNDER JET was obviously unused to smiling or being helpful to passengers, or even transferring tickets from one of their vessels to another. We had to pay for new tickets out to the island. We had also previously arranged to return from Heligoland on the HALUNDER JET anyway, this time for the complete journey back along the River Elbe to Hamburg. The office woman ignored our return tickets, the seats were summarily cancelled and new ones allocated so we no longer had the front row viewing seats we had booked and paid for many months ago. Ah well, we must make the best of it but what a shame.



So we boarded the vessel with almost 300 others and took our newly reserved seats on the lower Jet Deck of this catamaran. The seats were comfortable, screens around the lounge showed outside views, speed, and position on the route, and menus in the seat pockets showed food or drinks to order for delivery to one’s seat. All this was fine until we sailed and left the shelter of the coast. The journey was supposed to take one and a quarter hours, doing about 29 knots.



The journey to Heligoland was, well, the first syllable is about right – hell. It was very very rough, and the speed frequently dropped to 10 knots because of the sea conditions. Most people were sea-sick (I wasn’t) and staff walked around continuously collecting sick bags. I think it was the noise of people being ill, groaning, children crying, and some people screaming, and the discomfort that made it worse. I think we must have been on the limit of sailing conditions for that sort of vessel, and it was absolutely horrifying when we saw and felt us going underwater. Now we knew what a ‘green water’ experience was, as it happened several times during that dreadful journey.



One of my friends wanted some fresh air and managed to get on deck for a moment. Being the keen photographer that he is, he also managed to get pictures of the ATLANTIS ferry in the seas as we overtook her – we had caught her up on the journey, although she had left an hour ahead of us.



Atlantis up



Atlantis down



Nearly two hours later we arrived in Heligoland, to be met on the quayside by 3 ambulances. We disembarked with great relief and managed to walk away from the sight of the sea and an unforgettable experience.



The island seemed an interesting little place in the pale sunshine, with its painted shop fronts along the quayside. There were summer places to rent and lots of people around, obviously here on holiday. It looks very picturesque, with its nature reserves, sea life, beaches and summer social calendar. If this is July summer weather and sea conditions, we wondered what it might be like in the winter. I shall have to listen to the Shipping Forecast in December!



Helgoland



Helgoland



We sat with our backs to the sea for some time, and then realised that ATLANTIS had arrived. For some reason she does not come alongside, but anchors off. Those poor people on the ship then had the final indignity of having to descend into local craft to come ashore. After a voyage in those seas, I really didn’t envy them the final part of the journey, which must have seemed endless.



Coming ashore from Atlantis



Nearing the quayside



We recovered enough to have a snack in an upstairs restaurant which reminded me slightly of the de la Warr Pavilion at Bexhill in East Sussex.



Funny Girl



Lady von Busum



One friend had spoken to the First Officer on the HALUNDER JET about the weather and sea conditions for our return journey later, back to Hamburg via Cuxhaven. He was told that the weather front had almost cleared and the journey should be much better than this morning, which was such a relief. I think we three had mentally wondered about alternative means of getting back, rather than enduring another journey like the one coming here. In fact there is no other way of getting to this island, which has an interesting history.



The route



Halunder Jet



Ships seen: Dublin Express, MSC Joy, Atlantis, 2 DFS Freighters, Funny Girl, Lady von Busum (which was obviously translated as Lady of the Bosom), Amarinth, Nippon Maru (not really, just a model), Grandi Napoli, Halunder Jet



To be continued…

Summer 2011 Part 9

VISTAMAR - Day at sea



Thursday 14th July

We have a day at sea, sailing south towards Cuxhaven, at the mouth of the River Elbe. Early morning tea and coffee was available each day but we took meals in the Restaurant at our assigned table, and after breakfast today we had to prepare for Lifeboat Drill at 10 a.m. Every passenger had to stand outside his or her cabin wearing a life jacket, and then wait to be taken to muster stations outside on the deck. There was a roll-call of names and cabin numbers, the usual instruction of what to do in the case of emergency, and then we were dismissed.



4 Deck atrium



Small but perfectly formed



Lots of greenery throughout the ship



Lifting the spirits?



We didn’t want to be involved in the Keep Fit so-called entertainment so decided to investigate the free beer and music (the 4 piece Convoy Band again) to be held out on the Lido Deck by the pool. By this time the weather was deteriorating, as we were heading into the stretch of water between Norway and Denmark (the Skagerrak), and it was windy and cool. The flapping flags above the deck were rigid with the strength of the wind, and the ship was moving a lot, so even the band decided to move inside. Some hardy souls continued to enjoy their drinks out on deck, but it wasn’t comfortable so having filled our lungs with just enough fresh air, we went inside too. I was ill for a few minutes (what a nuisance) but recovered in time to walk into lunch.



Restaurant lunch was very poorly attended, and there were sympathetic looks and remarks from the staff. I took to my bed and had a wonderful deep sleep and met my chums for Afternoon Tea. We had all missed Playing Darts and Shuffleboard but felt better for a rest. As forecast, the ship’s motion lessened; there was still a swell but no visibility.



Hospital waiting area



Card room



Afternoon Tea in the Musiksalon was really well attended so obviously everyone had managed to get back on their feet again ready to enjoy more wonderful cakes and pastries – the Feasting part of the trip continues. The Boutique staff brought some of their goods for sale into the Musiksalon where we were all queuing for dainty food, so I bought a reminder of the fact that VISTAMAR is registered in Venezia – a small item of Murano glass that couldn’t be ignored. Postcards, key rings and photographs of the passengers were on sale in the Reception Foyer at the foot of the atrium, so it felt as if the ship had come alive again with so many people around.



Reception



The next Entertainment started soon after tea, which was a Lecture about the North Sea with slide pictures. The language difference didn’t seem to make a problem as we listened and saw pictures and graphs about tides, sea beds, birds, animals, the coastlines, weather and currents. It was all very interesting until the moment we were instructed about the life cycle of the Danish worm that lives on their beaches. That became so detailed and rather horrifying because of what it eats and produces, that we vowed never to go barefoot on a Danish beach, ever.



Captain Antonio Mattera had invited all passengers to a Cocktail Party so it was posh frock for me and smart gear for everyone as we sat with a glass of fizz in hand in the Musiksalon as the Cruise Director introduced the Captain, who made a speech and in turn introduced his senior Officers. Fifteen minutes later everyone was heading down to the Restaurant for Gala Dinner, in a very happy and jolly atmosphere.



Gala dinner



Gala dinner



The food was enjoyable and then, just before dessert was served, the lights were turned out. Music started, napkins were waved, and yes, the waiters walked in with cakes and fireworks blazing. The catering staff appeared and were introduced en masse to great applause, and then they all went back to work, the lights were turned up and we were served with Baked Alaska. It may have been rather predictable, but there’s nothing wrong with that on some occasions.



Music was provided back in the Musiksalon and then it was Show Time again, with international songs and Anton of the Tyrol appearing with other singers. Later there was music for dancing, Snacks were served to everyone sitting in and around the room, and there was a chance to see a Cabaret Show up in the Veranda Club.



One of the suites



Another view of a suite



Keeping tabs on the passengers



We went for a walk out on the damp decks,





Caring for passengers...



and found out that our speed today had been between 10 and 12 knots. At 7,500 tons this is a small ship and vulnerable to low pressure weather fronts (again/still) as well as sea conditions. Earlier we had been told about future cruises and itineraries for VISTAMAR and how she was going on a wonderful trip across to South America leaving just before Christmas, but I can’t quite see the appeal of this small vessel going across the Atlantic from Tenerife .



I really like this ship and the way she is run and I would certainly consider sailing on her in warmer waters, perhaps on one of her short Mediterranean or Aegean port-intensive cruises. This ship VISTAMAR has an original style and I certainly enjoyed my short cruise on her.



Tomorrow we are due to arrive early in Cuxhaven and then go to Heligoland, so that promises to be interesting.





Ships seen: none



To be continued…

Summer 2011 Part 8

Sailing on VISTAMAR



Wednesday 13th July 2011

This afternoon we will board the good ship VISTAMAR for a 2 night cruise to Cuxhaven, Germany. A Google translation of my ticket shows I am going to be “Dancing and Feasting between the mountains and Cuxhaven”. Hmm, hope I have the energy for all that…



From Mount Floyen we saw her coming through the last fjord towards Bergen at 11.06 a.m. and it was reassuring to know she was on her way; we later watched her berthing in the harbour at 12.40 p.m.



My ship is coming in



Vistamar manoeuvring alongside



and noticed the banner tied on the Sun Deck railings announcing she was with Plein Cap Croisieres of France. The French passengers disembarked into coaches and that was the end of that charter.



Alongside as Plein Cap Croisieres



By the time we three arrived back at the gangway at 2.00 p.m. the banner had been removed and the ship had now reverted to its owners - plantours & Partner - and it would be mostly German passengers – and us (two English and 1 American).



Along the quayside near the Fish Market



Local rubbish bin advertisement



The Purser was on the quayside and made us very welcome and said we could board straightaway.



Alongside then as plantours & Partner







The luggage was taken up the gangway for us, although one piece started to be taken towards an empty coach until spotted by its worried owner (not me) and brought back to go on board instead! I think the crewman imagined we were late in disembarking and had to be taken off by coach somewhere with our luggage. At last we were on board and in the Reception area which was full of sunshine and light from the 4-deck-high little circular atrium.



VISTAMAR’s keel was laid in 1988 at Union Naval de Levante, Valencia, Spain, and the ship completed in 1989 and registered to Mar Lines Universal Shipping, Panama. Her tonnage is 7,498 to carry 330 passengers at a possible maximum speed of 16.5 knots, sailing mostly in the Mediterranean. The Spanish owners and designers’ style seems to be reflected in the look of the ship which is quite angular, but pleasing to my eye at least.



Various charters over the years have sent her to South America, as well as to the eastern and western Mediterranean. She is now chartered annually by plantours & Partner (yes, with a lower-case p for the name) but we saw her finish her latest charter to Plein Cap Croisieres of France today, and revert back to plantours & Partner of Bremen. I like the idea that the ship has always kept the same name.



Vistamar deck and cabin plan



The ship has six decks, with cabins on the lower five, mostly in the forward half of the ship, with the public rooms in the rear half. There are two inside single cabins available, and four outside single cabins, three of which we had booked. There are various other grade cabins, including ten balcony suites and an owner’s suite, all shown on the Deck and Cabin Plan.



Deck names



Atrium artwork



Top of the Atrium



Writing Room



My cabin was spacious and simply furnished and the bathroom was fine, with ample towels and toiletries, so I was happy with my home for the next two nights.



Cabin 301, port side mid ships



In my bathroom



Toiletries



With no-one else on board we were able to explore, take some interior photographs, register credit cards,



Veranda Club looking aft



Musiksalon Bar, looking forward



Musiksalon port side, looking aft



and finally give in to the temptation to start the ‘dancing and feasting’ right away. The ship is registered in Venice, Italy, and the Lido Bar with its Venetian gondola scene looking out on to the swimming pool seemed the ideal place to relax in the hot Bergen sunshine, under the almost-cloudless blue sky.



Swimming pool



Lido Bar and Pool



Lido Bar tiling



Our Daily Programme (in German) in the cabins told us that at 2.30 p.m. we would all be welcomed in the Musiksalon with ‘fizz and nibbles’, so we went inside and joined many others being greeted by the friendly staff. The room is the full width of the ship, with tall windows covered inside by long golden-coloured curtains and faux palm trees placed at regular intervals. The seating was comfortable and solid-looking, set around a small raised stage at one end of the room. At the forward end of the Musiksalon was a semi-circular bar with tall chairs beside it. There seemed to be enough varied seating for all the passengers.



After enjoying the glass of fizz, we noticed that our Programme informed us that afternoon tea was available from 3.30 to 4.15 p.m. so after a rapid session of unpacking, we were back in the Musiksalon for the next entertainment – more feasting (wonderful pastries and cakes) and this time with rum-te-tum music from a 4 piece band on the little stage. The room was full, tea or coffee was enjoyed by all and I felt this was probably going to be the hub for a good time on board this almost unknown little ship. Indeed, I hadn’t heard of her before October 2010.



We were due to sail at 5.00 p.m. but as all the 200 passengers were on board and the ship was ready, we actually left the quayside and sailed at 4.35 p.m. and became part of the busy ship activity in Bergen harbour.



Top deck walkway around the Veranda Club



Forward Sun Deck



The Hurtigruten ship TROLLFJORD had arrived earlier and we could see her. The cruise ferry BERGENSFJORD was also to be seen, plus the cruise ships from earlier in the day, and local harbour vessels.



White Lady



Hakon Mosby



Amadea



Snarveien



2 turquoise funnels



Olympic Hera



Albatros



MSC Poesia



Trollfjord





We’d hardly settled down after departure than it was time to prepare for 7.30 p.m. Welcome Cocktails in the Musiksalon introduced by the Cruise Director, followed by dinner in the Restaurant Andalucia at 7.45 p.m. at our set table.



Restaurant Andalucia







This included free red or white wine, but bottled water and non-alcoholic drinks had to be paid for. At 10 p.m. there was a Welcome Show (in the Musiksalon of course) with music and singing that had my feet tapping and one particular singer/entertainer called Anton from the Tyrol, who seemed particularly popular. When the show ended the band continued to play for dancing. The translation of Dancing and Feasting for the title of the little cruise began to seem particularly accurate and I thought it was all very jolly.



At 10.30 p.m. there was the chance to photograph a Dessert Buffet and then consume it, which we couldn’t face, but I believe lots of passengers did. There was also an entertainer in the Veranda Club. We three decided to retire for the night to our respective cabins to build up our strength for the next day’s programme at sea.



Goodbye Bergen from Vistamar





Ships seen: Costa Luminosa, Costa Pacifica, MSC Poesia, Amadea, Albatros, the Bergen cross-harbour ferry, Bourbon Monsoon, White Lady, Normand Ranger, Trollfjord, Bergensfjord, Snarveien, Far Scorpion,



To be continued…